Anyway, my experience is with EPSON Stylus T10, so the whole printer hacking process follows is based on this printer. Said that, a whole range of EPSON Stylus printers (supporting DuraBright inks) works almost the same, and surprisingly similar inside. So the understanding gain with EPSON T10 is quite enough to convert most of EPSON printers, and also any other inkjet printer for that matter.
EPSON T10, T20 and C90 known to be very similar in hardware, so if you own one, it will be a pleasant surprise for you.
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WARNING
All electrical appliances are lethal, and it CAN KILL YOU. Unless you don’t know electricity, and not sure what you are doing, don’t even think of dismantling a printer (or any electrical devise).
Less lethal, but equally disturbing is that you will void warranty or any kind of service agreement, the moment you open up the printer (other than the customer accessible cover front).
You are warned, and I am not responsible for any kind of incident which leads to the facts mentioned in this blog. If you decide to hack your printer you are on your own. Nullification of warranty, your life or anything is not my slightest responsibility, but your own. If you are not agreeable, then just stop reading the rest of the posts, please.
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Okay, enough on warnings, and back to the hack.
I bought an EPSON Stylus T10 brand new for this conversion less than US$50 including a set of cartridges. I should mention the wired feeling I got when I decided to put the screwdriver between the casing joint and pop open the cover! Hey crazy, the printer is brand new!!! Hum you got to have a new printer dismantling to get the exact wired feeling I was experiencing. That was part of the total experience package, anyway.
Kavee
Posts
Hi, Thanks for the info, Will Epson T13 work for this hack, and also can you please specify how to increase the print head height to allow PCB to go in.
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